The La Rhune Rack Railway

While many hikers choose the ascent from Ascain, we opt for the nostalgic version: the legendary rack railway. As one of the few remaining of its kind in France, it has been puffing its way to the summit since 1924. Over a distance of just four kilometers, it overcomes an impressive 736 meters in altitude from the Col de Saint-Ignace—a journey that feels like stepping back in time.

At 905 meters, Larrun, as it is called in Basque, is far more than just a mountain—it is the sacred symbol of the Basque Country. The Petit Train de la Rhune was inaugurated in 1924 and is an icon of the region today. This summer (2023), it is once again carrying us and thousands of other visitors up into the clouds.

A good tip for early birds: We take the first train of the day. This not only saves nerves when looking for a parking spot at the Col de Saint-Ignace near Sare, but also allows you to enjoy the morning silence before the large crowds arrive.

Those who prefer to conquer the mountain in a good two-and-a-half-hour hike should not underestimate the Pyrenees. The weather at the summit can change within minutes; thick fog often rolls in just as quickly as it disappears. A small mountain with the character of a great one.

In the lovingly restored wooden carriages, we glide past the typically lush green hills of the Pays Basque. Along the way, we encounter the pottoks. Although they are accustomed to hikers and not very shy, caution is advised: these ponies are the bosses on the mountain. If they take a dislike to something, they show it clearly. We admire them from a respectful distance.

Once at the top, the borders blur. You can stop at the Ventas on the Spanish side or find a quiet spot for a picnic. The 360-degree view from the summit is simply breathtaking: it extends across the rolling hills of the Basque Piedmont to the jagged peaks of the Pyrenees and the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz on the deep blue Atlantic.

When the little train finally whistles for the return journey, we take one more deep breath of the mountain air before heading back down into the green labyrinth of the Basque Country.