If you want to visit the Calanques between October and June, you should go on the marked hiking trails. In July and August, most of the trails are closed due to forest fire danger. The only possibility then is to get there by boat or ship, as we did from Sanary-sur-Mer, where we made an unforgettable trip with the "Croix du Sud".

It is almost like a miracle to find a haven like the Parc National des Calanques so close to bustling Marseille. In parts of this tiny, 85-square-kilometer area of scrub-covered, curving rocky outcrops, it's easy to think you're miles from civilization. Then, a bend in a pine-covered gorge reveals France's second-largest metropolis sprawling seemingly within reach; the Calanques seem like uninhabited suburbs.

But with their light-filled setting, rich flora and fauna, and idyllic hidden coves, Les Calanques are so much more than that. They are loved by the Marseillais, who come here to soak up the sun, hike over pine-clad rocky outcrops, cruise around on boats, and simply relax.