Overland

Destination spotlight: Nord - Pas de Calais

During our visits in 2015 and 2016, we got to know the Hauts-de-France region, which encompasses the former Nord-Pas de Calais and Picardy, as a hospitable and unassuming area with a ‘suitable’ population, with unassuming charm and warmth. We found a mix of nature, culture and history that offers a wide range of options for long or short holidays.

The region lost two industries in close succession, which had formed the economic basis for the modest prosperity of the middle class, consisting mainly of workers in the coal mines and machine factories, and the textile industry, which produced fabrics and carpets.

As in the heavy industrial regions of Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany, a process of change began: new professions emerged, new jobs followed, art and education found new homes – or moved into former factory buildings that now provide a framework for creativity. A 21st-century culture is gradually emerging here, one that does not break with the past but sees itself as its further development.

A look back at the world of technology 1.0 can be experienced in the Roubaix factory. Looms from the Middle Ages, when weaving was done by hand at home, to modern, computer-assisted models show the development of a technology that was primarily aimed at increasing production speed. The journey to get there can be marvelled at when the old machines are brought back to life for a short time.

The Louvre in Lens got off to an exciting start. At first, there were many sceptics among art lovers who debated whether it made sense for France's most famous gallery to open an exhibition space for world-class art objects in Lens, a former mining town that was run-down at the time. Controversy ensued, there was damage caused by vandals, and there were the ‘usual fears’ that Lens would never be able to compete with other high-profile locations.

All these fears have since been dispelled, and the museum has taken its place among the world's great museums, a fact that is also recognised by visitors.

However, we find it a shame that visitors to the museum apparently return home ‘straight away’ after their visit and do not visit, or do not visit enough, the places that formed the basis for the museum's creation. Just as the museum and its exhibitions are enjoyable, Lens also has plenty of sights to see, delicious food to taste and great places to hike or cycle.

Lille is no longer just a stop on the Eurostar or TGV between London, Paris and Brussels. The capital of Nord-Pas de Calais is a city that charms visitors with its friendly old town, great restaurants and, around the citadel, a park and small zoo where locals stroll with their families, enjoying the sunshine and fresh culinary delights al fresco.

We begin our tour in Lille's old town, where all the interesting streets and squares are waiting for us: the Rue de la Monnaie, where you can spend your money well and freely. The closer we get to the Chamber of Commerce, the Opera House and the Old Stock Exchange, the less tempting it becomes to buy anything, as the prices of the clothes on display are rapidly becoming beyond our budget...

This is not so much the case in Roubaix, where La Piscine has found a home in a former Art Deco-style swimming pool, displaying world-class exhibits.

France is not only a country of wine and champagne, but also of beer.

Saint-Omer is home to one of the largest breweries in northern France, the Brasserie Saint-Omer, which we visit during the Fête de la Bière (Beer Festival) to watch how the solid ingredients are transformed into liquid and really tasty beer.