tip-no-53 | © Bert Schwarz 2022

Grasse and the Perfume

Highlights

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When visiting Grasse, one must engage with the topic of "perfume." Not solely for the subject's sake, but because otherwise the understanding of this place remains hidden. The town's development is inextricably woven into the world of fragrances.

Perfume bottle Grasse | © Bert Schwarz 2019
The essence of Grasse: An interplay of glass and fragrance.

After a while, I felt as if the town's history and present interlock continuously and without rupture. It is a fascinating blend of art, craftsmanship, and industry that has made Grasse the perfume capital of the world.

Stinking Gloves: The Cradle of Scents

In the Middle Ages, the leather industry was the leading trade in Grasse. However, the uric acid commonly used for tanning at the time produced a pungent odor. To put an end to this, craftsmen experimented with baths of lavender, myrtle, jasmine, and roses.

This new trend of perfumed gloves spread quickly through royal courts. Catherine de' Medici popularized them, and soon the fragrance business was more lucrative than the leather itself. Perfumers gradually displaced the tanners from the town.

Historic Grasse wall waterwheel | © Bert Schwarz 2019
Traces of the past: Where tanners once worked, gardens bloom today.

Where Factories Sound Poetic

Grasse is ideally situated between the sea and the mountains. The mild climate and fertile soil provide perfect conditions for producing flowers like jasmine, the city's "mythical flower." The author Francis de Croisset aptly noted that Grasse is the only city in the world where the word "factory" sounds poetic.

Perfume production essences | © Bert Schwarz 2019
Centuries of know-how: From raw material extraction to concentrate.

The "Nose" and His Organ

The perfumer, often simply called "the nose," is a composer of scents. At a special table called an "organ," at least 2,000 base products are available to him. It is a highly specialized craft that requires years of experience to create a harmonious whole from individual essences.

Statue The Perfumer Grasse | © Bert Schwarz 2019
Monument to a craft: The perfumer as a symbol of the town.

Sources: These insights are based on visits to the major perfume houses of Grasse,
particularly the House of Galimard.