... in Bergerac

More than just a striking nose

When you think of Bergerac, one name inevitably comes to mind: Cyrano. But as present as he is as a statue in the alleys of the old town, he was never a real local. He is a purely literary figure from the pen of Edmond Rostand, a legend in stone and bronze.

On our stroll through the historic center, we left the statues aside and instead went in search of the real Bergeracoises. The lively encounters with the people on-site were far more entertaining for us than the silent gaze of the famous gentleman with the large nose. In the small cafés and hidden corners, real life pulsates—you just have to be willing to detach your gaze from the legend and fully engage with those you meet.

eat

There is at least one restaurant on every corner in Bergerac—there is something for every taste. We began our tour at Quai Cyrano, where you can kill several birds with one stone.

The ground floor houses the Tourist Information office, while on the first floor, you can get to know and buy the regional wine. Our highlight: having a snack on the terrace with a view of the Dordogne and the passing Gabarres.

Walking through the old town, you reach the weekly market by the Notre Dame church. Here we met Xavier and Michel, two local institutions who sell their sheep's cheese and foie gras. This is where we truly immerse ourselves in local life: regional, sustainable, and fresh shopping is a way of life here.

On the way back, a visit to the wine cellar Le Temps du Vin is a must. In addition to a huge selection, they have the wonderful idea of finding wines from the exact birth year of the person receiving the gift. Loaded with our treasures, we headed to the parking lot at the Palace of Justice—there, your rims are safe from the notoriously narrow curbs of the local parking garages.

shop

Opposite the Marché couvert is the bookstore La colline aux livres. The owner, Caroline, told us a lot about her shop. Another highlight is the concept store Péninsule by Krystel Gence. Everything here revolves around local craftsmanship and Cyrano—a shop run with real passion. Highly recommended!

marvel

In addition to the Tobacco Museum, the brand-new Dordonha Musée Costi is an absolute tip. Housed in a renovated ensemble from the 1680s, it documents the deep connection between the city and the Dordogne River. Bergerac was founded on its banks and flourished through river trade. Since 2023, the permanent exhibition has offered even more insights into this history.