... in Rocamadour

A village that seems to defy gravity

Rocamadour is a village that literally clings to the jagged cliffs. A medieval monument, similar to others in the Dordogne Valley, but one that develops its very own vertical dynamic here.

The town extends over several levels, woven together by a labyrinth of steep stairs. Those who do not wish to conquer the altitude between the valley and the sacred district entirely on their own can use the two elevators that transport visitors and locals alike between worlds.

The Village

In essence, there is only one main street in Rocamadour that winds gently from the valley floor upwards. Meeting people here is easy because it is busy. We visited in September, as the high season is—not just for us—simply too crowded.

The people flowing toward us and moving with us are tourists, eager to see if Rocamadour is truly as beautiful as its reputation suggests. Among these travelers are also modern pilgrims, interested in the abbey and the relics kept there, some following a section of the Way of St. James.

The People

Our way uphill takes us past an ice cream parlor. Well, "past" isn't quite right, because where there is ice cream, stopping is always an option for us. Here we meet Roland Manouvrier. He is a master ice cream maker and the owner of the shop. Interestingly, he hails from St. Léon-sur-Vézère, where our campsite is located, and his brother runs our favorite restaurant there. It’s a small world—even in France.

He also supplies regional gastronomy with his ice cream creations. Roland drew inspiration from perfumers in Grasse on the Côte d'Azur, adapting the art of composing scents for his flavors. Our stop was crowned not only by truly delicious ice cream but also by a fascinating insight into a craft fueled by creativity.

Just outside the main town, small hamlets belong to the municipality of Rocamadour. One such place is Les Alix, where Rachel’s family runs a farm and grows lavender. The sheep in the fields keep the weeds down—and since they don’t like lavender, the plants are safe. The Soulayres family is developing the cultivation further, as the climate in the Dordogne Valley differs from that of Provence.

We continue along Rue Roland le Preux, the main street of Rocamadour. At the upper end, right by the Porte du Figuier gate, is the small shop run by Sacha and Basile Cremoux. They offer ready-made meals using fresh, regional ingredients—a wonderful alternative to mass-produced convenience food.

Who says "Mom and Pop" shops are dead? In the Crèmerie du Roc, we meet Marie-Gabrielle Goumaud, who sells cheese, nuts, nut oil, and many products from small regional farms. The shop embodies exactly what is often only discussed: sustainability through short transport routes and excellent quality at fair prices.

Our final stop takes us to the Cave d’Aveline in the L'Hospitalet district, high atop the cliffs. Here you find wine, cheese, and a true rarity: Benjamin Blanchard is the last remaining producer of raisin wine. Due to its low alcohol content, it is technically considered a soft drink and is incredibly refreshing in the heat—a discovery that we put to the test immediately.