With 70,000 inhabitants, Colmar is the third largest city in Alsace after Strasbourg and Mulhouse. It is mentioned in documents for the first time in 823. Frederick II granted Colmar city rights, made it an imperial city in 1226, and in the mid-14th century it became a member of the League of Ten Cities, an alliance of 10 free imperial cities in Alsace. Since 1673 Colmar belongs to France.
We start the tour of the old town at the Unterlinden Museum through the Rue de Tête past the Maison des Têtes decorated with over 100 heads to the Dominican Church (Église des Dominicains). Built in 1283, the building is now a museum and houses Martin Schongauer's most important work. Colmar's most important sacral building is the Martinsmünster (Cathédrale St. Martin) with valuable stained glass windows. Near the Martinsmünster is the Pfisterhauswohl, built around 1537, which is considered the most beautiful half-timbered house.
A stroll through the adjoining neighborhood of Little Venice (Petite Venise) is worthwhile. Along the little river Lauch are picturesque half-timbered houses decorated with flowers.
For a trip to the Middle Ages, it is best to go to the castle Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg, about 15, 20 minutes by car from Colmar in the direction of Strasbourg.
After spending a week in Strasbourg last year, 2022, I am back this April (2023) for a short visit to our neighboring country. Colmar, with its compact old town center, is more manageable than Strasbourg, and the sights are within walking distance. Just the right size for a really relaxed - and above all extremely enjoyable - flying visit. And the journey takes only three to four hours by caravan. That's ideal for turning your back on the hectic pace at home for two or three days and coming down to earth with Alsatian Gemütlichkeit.
In line with this, I've compiled eight tips for you on our favorite places to visit and things to do in Colmar.
In the picturesque, cobbled streets of Colmar's old town, golden plaques with the Statue of Liberty on them are embedded. What is hidden behind them is in the Rue des Marchands. Here stands the birthplace of Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi. The French sculptor created "Lady Liberty", the Statue of Liberty that has stood in the Upper Bay off New York since 1886. Today, the Musée Bartholdi is located here and is worth a visit.
In Colmar's historic center, one walks through over 500 years of architectural history. The collegiate church of St. Martin in the center has Romanesque origins and the magnificent half-timbered facades give an idea of the wealth of the city in the Middle Ages.
The Unterlinden Museum is probably the major attraction of Colmar. One of the most famous works in the museum is the Isenheim Altar by Matthias Grünewald. In 2015, the extension by Herzog & de Meuron was completed, which was added to the part of the historical museum located in the former Dominican convent. Since the reopening, the Unterlinden Museum presents itself as an exciting ensemble of three buildings from different eras that are skillfully interlinked. For those interested in art and architecture, an affair worth seeing.
The Chocolate Museum combines in a fascinating way history, interesting facts about the origin and production of various products made from cocoa, and seemingly endless opportunities to participate.
Different types of chocolate can be tested for their hidden flavors and, finally, you can create your own chocolate. With an audio guide, many secrets about this sweet substance can be revealed.
Lots of fun for the whole family.
Like everywhere else, the weather in Colmar cannot be influenced. During our short visit it is April and weather-wise this month lives up to its reputation. So there are three options: 1. pack up and move on. 2. stay in the caravan and play cards. No need to go to Colmar for that. 3. brave the drizzle armed with an umbrella and curiously peek into the backyards. And that's exactly what we did.
In the meantime, I came across the Museum of Natural History and Ethnography. It deals with the fauna and flora of the region and the world, and also deals with very old fossils from the area of the Vosges, the Rhine - but also from America and Africa.
In the course of time, we have already got to know a few market halls in France. Those where "simply" a roof was built over a street, as in Antibes or in a former church, as in Sarlat-la-Canéda. I find Colmar's market hall a few steps from the old town in one direction and Little Venice in the other. You can't go in here hungry. The bright, friendly atmosphere and the fresh produce would encourage me to shop way too much. But even without exposing yourself to such dangers, a worthwhile detour can be made here around noon. The market hall is an ideal place for an uncomplicated lunch inside or, if the weather is nice, outside in the sun to enjoy an Alsatian tarte flambée, local beer or sparkling wine.
«Little Venice» is the name given to this stretch of the river Lauch in Colmar. It probably comes from the original orientation of the houses on both sides of the river that flows through the southeast of the city. This neighborhood begins behind the Koïffhus and continues along the Quai de la poissonnerie to the Pont Turenne and Pont Saint-Pierre bridges. «Little Venice» is located at the beginning of the Krutenau, which refers to suburbs where vegetables are grown on the outskirts of cities. Originally inhabited by a rural community of wine growers, vegetable farmers and boatmen, the Krutenau is located around Rue Turenneherum. Boat trips are available here to succumb to the charm of «Little Venice» from the water.
As it is in life: if you only pretend to be on vacation for research and film production, the time factor is a major one. Especially when ... in April ... the weather is not really predictable.
So the restaurant of choice has to meet two criteria: it has to serve me whenever I show up without a reservation, the food has to taste good, and it has to be reasonably priced. On my rounds through the old town, I looked at many menu notices.
The Restaurant Pfeffel then captured me with its cuisine, the regional beer on offer and the cordiality of the boss, chef and the entire staff in such a way that during my three-day stay in Colmar I focused only on their menu and no other places.
On the relevant portals you can find quite a few hotels or B & B accommodations. To search, I recommend to book as close as possible to the Rue des Unterlinden because the old town is then within walking distance. Without much effort.
But I travel by caravan and so don't have to worry about breakfast or bed quality.... There is directly at the Jll a wonderful, quiet 3***-star campsite with electricity, and clean sanitary facilities: Camping de l'Ill . It takes about 10 minutes by car to get to a parking lot right at the old town, and since it zig-zags a bit through the city center, it is advisable to look for the sign «P Scheurer Kestner» or «P Rapp», there you can easily store your vehicle for the time of your visit. Those arriving by motor home should use the bicycle or public transportation to visit the downtown area.
Colmar's Christmas market, known far beyond the city limits, begins in late November (Nov. 24, 2023). When it does, Colmar is well attended. If you want to experience Colmar in its full pre-Christmas glory, you have until December 30 to visit the six sites in the old town, snack on far too many sweets and simply enjoy the atmosphere.
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